Fall River, Massachusetts, is a city steeped in culinary history, renowned for its vibrant food scene and unique dining experiences. From classic diners to iconic restaurants, the city has witnessed the rise and fall of many eateries, each leaving an indelible mark on its residents and visitors alike. Among the many establishments that have come and gone, five restaurants stand out for their cultural significance and the memories they evoke.
One such establishment is China Royal, a restaurant that was a SouthCoast staple from 1950 to 2001. Originally located on North Main Street, it relocated to a former A&P supermarket, transforming it into a grand pagoda-style restaurant. The owner, Chung Gong Wong, invested half a million dollars in renovations, creating a facility capable of hosting 750 people. China Royal was not just a restaurant; it was a cultural hub featuring dancing, comedy, and live performances from Polynesian musicians and fire dancers. The restaurant's closure marked the end of an era, as it was sold to CVS, which still stands on the site today.
Another beloved restaurant that has left its mark on Fall River is Mee Sum, which opened in 1950 and closed in 2024. Located on South Main Street, Mee Sum became known for its Chinese American cuisine and, most notably, its chow mein sandwich. The restaurant's owners, Regina and Kenneth Mark, became ambassadors for the unique Asian dish, perfecting it to the delight of generations of customers. Despite unsuccessful attempts to lure them back into the kitchen, Mee Sum's legacy lives on through its recipe for pork fried rice, which has been shared with the world.
Billy's Café, founded in 1934 by William Oliveira Soares, was a sports bar that became a beloved fixture in Fall River. Known for its pub food, including chouriço and chips sandwiches, Billy's was a down-home pub for working stiffs and sports fans. The bar sponsored local adult softball and basketball teams, and its mahogany bar was a favorite haunt for some of the city's best athletes. After changing ownership several times, Billy's closed in 2012 due to hard economic times, leaving a void in the city's culinary landscape.
Earnshaw's Diner, which first opened in 1929 as Kelshaw Diner, was a classic diner that served the city for decades. Located on Pleasant Street, it was known for staying open late, satisfying the late-night cravings of locals with its club sandwiches, milkshakes, and short stacks. The Lanosa family spread the Earnshaw's name throughout the city, opening several locations, including a sandwich shop and a colonial restaurant. However, the diner's sole remaining location under the Route 79 spaghetti ramps withered away in the 1990s, closing by the early 2000s.
One restaurant that may see a resurgence is Dairy Freeze, an ice cream shop established in 1952 by David Couto. Located on Globe Street, Dairy Freeze was a family-run business that served banana splits, sundaes, malteds, and more. The ice cream shop's prominent sign featuring a cone of swirled soft-serve has become an iconic symbol of Fall River's culinary history. After many years of closure, new owner Kevin Proulx is seeking permission to reopen the Dairy Freeze, aiming to bring back the sweet treats that once delighted locals and visitors alike.
These five restaurants represent just a fraction of Fall River's rich culinary history. Each establishment has left an indelible mark on the city, evoking memories and emotions that transcend mere food. As Fall River continues to evolve, these restaurants remain a testament to the city's past, reminding us of the importance of preserving and celebrating its culinary heritage.
